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Specialist in Multirotor Tech & FPV Equipment

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Check the operating temperature of your multirotor components

Digital Non-Contact IR Thermometer Laser Point Gun


In Stock


A non-contact infrared thermometer is an essential tool for post-build checks and testing; how else can you safely check the working temperature of your motors, ESCs and batteries etc? All electrical components have a typical and maximum operating temperature. HP-LEDS are expected to get warm (+100°C) when lit, but get too hot and they will dim or even fail. Note that +50°C is roughly the threshold of heat pain to your flesh… so testing if a part is too hot by merely touching it (I don’t recommend touching any powered circuit) is not a quantitative analysis to be relied on. This IR non-contact thermometer is easy to operate. Simply point to an object and read its temperature. The laser sight allows accurate targeting. Since an infrared thermometer measures surface temperature, accurate results are obtained only when the target is directly visible.

Note gimbal control board not included.

  • Unit of temp: °C & °F 
  • Temperature Range: -50 +380℃(-58 +716°F)
  • Accuracy: ±1.5%
  • Resolution: 0.1℃ or 0.1F
  • Distance Spot Ratio: 12:1
  • Display: LCD with Back Light
  • Low battery indication
  • Data hold function.
  • Power supply: 2 x 1.5v AAA (not included)

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Post build / Pre Flight checks: Multirotors aren't cheap. While a typical quadcopter might be worth several hundred pounds, a high spec octocopter can be worth several thousand. That's not to mention the value of the payload, which in the professional aerial photography / cinematography industry might mean a device which is worth several times the value of the drone. It goes without saying that you should thoroughly test your multicopter before flying it.

An obvious check is to ensure that all of the screws/bolts are tight and the props are secure. Double checking the prop type (CW / CCW) in relation to its motor position is also a good idea. Flight electronics also require attention. Remember to calibrate your ESCs. Are the motors spinning in the correct direction? Have you correctly setup the FC; have you selected the appropriate frame type, are the PID values correct and has the necessary calibration been conducted? This brings us onto probably the most important part, the wiring. The two most important questions: are all of the polarities correct and are your components being supplied with right voltage? Double and triple check (you want to at least get off the ground, don't you?). Also check whether the components are wired together correctly and whether the soldered joints are good? Consider if the connectors and cabling are appropriate for the maximum current draw? It is a good idea to do these checks as you go along and everything again at the end of the build.

There are a few useful gadgets that you should use to help. A multimeter is essential for checking voltages and it's wise to perform some continuity checks. A clamp meter is great for checking the current draw from your motors (make sure you get a DC one, most are only AC!). Finally an infrared thermometer is extremely handy. Because electrical currents generate heat, temperature monitoring is an efficient way to predict potential failure. For instance, it is a good idea to conduct a ground-based power up test and monitor the temperature of the ESCs, motors and voltage regulators etc. It may be that by using an IR thermometer you spot a problem early and avert permanent damage to an electrical component (more experienced builders maybe familiar with the dreaded 'grey smoke' and the putrid smell of electrical burning - something to be avoided).

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